Ecological and cultural tourism is the fastest growing sector of international tourism, with an increasing number of travelers seeking destinations that are safe and off the beaten track and which provide opportunities for adventure activities. With its pristine natural environment, beautiful reefs and beaches, migratory humpback whales, warm tropical climate, friendly locals, cultural traditions, political stability, and relatively low number of tourists (just 30-35,000 per year), the Kingdom of Tonga is an attractive destination for such travelers. We believe that our tourism venture, the Friendly Islands Kayak Company, is helping to meet this demand while being sensitive to both the natural environment and cultural traditions of Tonga.

Based in the scenic Vava'u island group, FIKCO has specialized in guided sea kayak expeditions since 1991. With its newly developed Adventure Centre, FIKCO also offers guided mountain biking, whale watching, snorkelling, and nature/cultural tours, plus free public access to resources on Tonga's history, geography, flora, fauna, marine ecosystem, and culture. The Adventure Centre promotes community education, drawing on the knowledge and expertise of FIKCO's naturalist guides who have presented on such topics as environmental conservation, ethical whale watching, marketing of tourism products, eco-tourism, and employment standards for guides.

Tourism that is sensitive to local ecology and culture has tremendous socio-economic value for a small developing nation such as Tonga. At the local level, FIKCO has created employment opportunities, provided for the transfer of diverse skills, and promoted community education. FIKCO continues to provide opportunities for training of local people in such areas as adventure tourism, sea kayaking, outdoor leadership, interpretation, environmental conservation, first aid, safe boat handling, marine navigation, office work and accounting. The Tongan partners of the company recently completed a six-month course in office administration, computerized accounting, and small business management in New Zealand, funded by the Pacific Islands Investment Development Scheme. The New Zealand and Tongan partners of FIKCO are equally active in the daily operations and management of the business.

The economic benefits from tourism operations such as FIKCO spread throughout the wider community. Handicraft cooperatives, local carvers, villages which provide tourist feasts, transport operators, accommodation owners, suppliers of market garden produce, and retailers all benefit from FIKCO's activities. In addition, the benefits from these activities have direct impacts on local women and their families.

Women produce the majority of the handicrafts purchased by FIKCO guests and they have developed a system whereby different families in a village take turns hosting a feast and supporting one another in the feast preparations. Also, FIKCO makes a conscious effort to employ equal numbers of local men and women. This is not necessarily easy since Tongan women are often discouraged from working by their fathers or husbands, especially if their work takes them away from family responsibilities. Consequently, guiding positions at FIKCO are filled by men while women are hired for the daytime office, reception, and cleaning positions.

At the national level, the socio-economic benefits for Tonga from ecotourism and cultural tourism include the generation of foreign exchange and, ultimately, the improvement of living standards. FIKCO, in particular, actively promotes Tonga as a tourist destination through its marketing literature and at international trade shows. In recognition of the benefits of eco/cultural tourism for the Kingdom, the Government of Tonga has received funding from Australia and New Zealand for the development and promotion of nature-based tourism.

To be sure, even nature-based tourism can pose threats to the delicate ecological balance that exists throughout the Pacific. In an effort to protect Tonga's natural and cultural resources, Friendly Islands Kayak Company has developed Minimum Impact Guidelines that are disseminated to their guides and guests. These guidelines were established with not only international standards and practices in mind, but also following careful consideration of Tonga's unique socio-cultural and environmental features. Effective implementation of minimum impact guidelines in developing countries like Tonga, however, faces inherent challenges.

While a local guide might understand the guidelines, they may not necessarily internalize them. For example, FIKCO's local guides are trained to brief their guests on the importance of preserving the coral reefs and yet they may still occasionally touch and stand on the reefs themselves. Thus, close monitoring of the guides' practices in the field and ongoing education is required. Indeed, there is a strong need in Tonga for more community education in environmental conservation, particularly in the outer islands, together with stricter enforcement of government regulations. The ultimate goal of such awareness is to foster in the local people a sense of stewardship and accountability in relation to their natural environment.

While the potential benefits of ecotourism and cultural tourism can be far reaching, there is also the risk that tourism ventures will negatively impact local cultures. To minimize this risk, FIKCO educates the guides and guests on cultural protocol, such as appropriate dress and behaviour. However, humility and mutual respect, specifically between visitors and their hosts, are equally if not more important (yet often-overlooked) aspects of cultural sensitivity . Tongans are particularly warm and hospitable hosts. If tour operators and travelers comply with government laws and local customs, the cultural exchange will be mutually rewarding and tourism will be positively regarded. In contrast, if there is little or no show of respect, tourism has a tenuous future in that the host country.

We believe that FIKCO is an example of a small-scale eco-friendly venture that is appropriate to the Pacific Island context. The company directors are mindful that the practice of environmentally and culturally sustainable tourism is essential to FIKCO's long-term future since it is precisely the pristine natural features and relatively preserved cultural traditions of Tonga that attract discerning travelers to Tonga. Our mission statement reflects these attitudes and business ethics. In short, FIKCO is about, "The promotion of fun, safe adventure activities within an atmosphere of harmony and unity, specifically between the indigenous people, their natural environment and their guests."

Sharon and Doug Spence
Directors of Friendly Islands Kayak Company Ltd.

Sea kayaking in a tropical island paradise had always appealed to my dad and I. But it was not until we were actually flying over Tonga's closely grouped islands and multitudes of shallow reefs that we got a glimpse of what lay ahead of us on our eight-day South Pacific adventure. From the air every island appeared to be surrounded by a white sand beach, and few signs of people like houses, docks or boats. This was my kind of place!

The waters of the Ha'apai archipelago are absolutely crystalline, as beautiful and inviting as any in the world. Almost without exception these pristine reefs and beaches can easily be waded, allowing the angler a shot at a myriad of reef bantam weights. Kayak touring is the perfect way to experience Tonga. After a few invigorating hours of paddling we would arrive at our destination for the night, quickly set up camp, grab our fly rods and be off. While we had great fun playing the tropical fish, we only kept a few of the pelagic variety (tuna mostly) for an evening appetizer.

My dad and I each brought along Sage six weight four-piece travel rods. These fast-action rods can easily be stowed in the kayak cockpit where they are quickly accessible. A brief angler's checklist would also include a corrosion resistant reel (there's no opportunity to rinse gear in fresh water until after the trip); a well-stocked fly box (90% of the fish I caught were taken on size 6 or 8 clouser minnows in chartreuse and white; assorted other shrimp and minnow patterns were also effective); stiff-soled wading boots; 10 and 20 lb mono line and a roll of wire leader; needle nose pliers (for removing hooks from the fish); and of course a hat, sunscreen and polarized sunglasses.

The adventurous fly fisherman will find that the islands of Tonga offer much more than just fast action behind the fly rod. If your idea of paradise is being the only fly fisherman in an entire island group, then this is the place.

Vava'u, with its sheltered waterways and favorable climate, is the ideal place for young people to develop their paddling skills. Our family trips (one or more families) are exclusive departures (i.e. we do not normally mix adults with children). In this way, the paddle plan may be structured according to the children's unique needs and abilities. In consultation with the parents, our guides can modify such factors as paddling distances, degree of challenge, and number of camping nights on a given island. We have found day paddles from base camps (i.e. two or more nights on one island) to be particularly convenient for families.

• 1 Family - minimum of 4 people over age 13 years: 15% Discount
• 2 Families - minimum of 4 people over age 13 years: 20% Discount
• Children under 5 years: Free of Charge

An increasing number of people (friends, clubs, special interest groups) are booking exclusive group trips with us in Tonga. These may occur as one of our scheduled departures (provided the booking is made well in advance) or as a customized departure with dates to suit the participants' schedules. Our flexible guides are happy to structure the itinerary according to the groups' interests and abilities.

• 6-8 adults: 10% discount
• 9-12 adults: 20% discount

Help us fill the last few spaces on our trips and receive a 25% discount if you book within 30 days of the trip departure. This first-time offer is especially suited to the flexible traveler who can drop everything and take off on an impulse. Offer is subject to availability at time of booking.

Travelers take note: air point seats are subject to availability at the time of booking! Having worked for FIKCO for three years now, I can say from experience that airlines allocate a limited number of seats to passengers traveling on air points. The trip cancellations we receive from disappointed guests attests to this. The number of available seats per flight varies depending on the airline, time of year and destination. Before booking your air travel, contact me regarding availability on your chosen trip. If you wish to use your air points to fly to Tonga, to avoid disappointment I recommend reserving your air travel well in advance (one year preferably).

Any serious swimmers out there? Inter-island swimming is ideal for athletes in training or for those who simply love swimming! In 2003 we will be offering water babies the opportunity to swim island to island in the warm, clear waters of the Vava'u Archipelago. Swim distances vary between 1 and 3 kilometres and the currents are minimal (0-2 knots). Mask (for entertainment along the way), snorkel and fins are recommended, but the choice is yours. Swimmers will be supported by double kayaks and/or our 8.5 metre rigid inflatable boat "Tropic Bird". Your personal effects will travel in the boats along with the group camping and cooking gear. This is a camping trip and all food is fully catered. Bring a friend along for moral support and swim alongside their kayak! Drop us a line to let us know if you're interested in participating in this unique activity.

You've most likely heard of mothership adventures where paddling day-trippers indulge in the comforts of a floating resort/ship at the end of the day. With our new concept, resort kayaking vacations, paddlers can now spend the day in the outer islands kayaking, combing beaches, picnicking and snorkelling, returning to The Tongan Beach Resort each afternoon aboard our 8.5 metre powered vessel "Tropic Bird". There, hot showers, comfortable beds and a la carte dining are the rewards after an active day in the sun. Each morning, guests head back out to the islands aboard Tropic Bird to meet their guides and set off for another day of exploring by kayak. This new package, available in 2003, will include six days' easy kayaking, eight nights' comfortable resort accommodation and picnic lunches. Pamper yourself and enjoy a taste of kayaking without the rigors of camping!

Over the years we have received bookings from many fly fishing enthusiasts. Russell Carmona's article in this newsletter is a first-hand testimonial to the unparalleled experience of tropical fly-fishing. Next season we will be introducing exclusive fly fishing/kayaking vacations to small groups interested in eco-friendly, sustainable fishing. Thank you Russell for your editorial contribution. We hope to see you and your dad back in the Friendly Isles in the not too distant future.

Our previous E-newsletter mentioned the impact of Cyclone Waka on Vava'u last New Year's Eve, which also put paid to the plans of many travelers to Tonga for several weeks. Three months following this event, we are pleased to report how miraculously a small island nation can rebound from a cyclone within such a short period of time. Most resorts were shut for repairs for up to a month, but all are now operating as usual. The Government of Tonga lifted import duties on building materials for locals and businesses needing to repair homes, commercial buildings and docks. In a crisis such as this it is heartening to see everyone working cooperatively with the reconstruction. We have heard that cyclones are a natural, albeit radical, pruning process, and sure enough, the bush is growing back many as never before. The vegetable and fruit crops will take a few more months to recover fully, just in time for our adventure season.

Sharon and Doug return to Tonga May 5 to join our partners 'Epeli and Valeti and the guides for our twelfth season of adventures in the sun, sand and crystal clear waters. We'll spare you the details about that bad word "work" - the reason for your escape to our friendly isles. Meanwhile, Nicola will remain at our New Zealand office to answer your questions. For those wanting to communicate with Sharon and Doug directly, just ask Nicola for our e-mail address in Vava'u. Our next quarterly newsletter will be sent to you in August, but we hope to hear from many of you before then!